How much does it cost to remove a 60 ft tree?

At an example $20/ft with $150 of add-ons: 60 × $20 + $150 = $1,350. Rates vary widely by region, species and difficulty — enter your own quote in the tree-removal tool.

Is tree removal something I can do myself?

Large tree removal is dangerous and should be done by a licensed, insured arborist with proper rigging and coverage. This tool is for budgeting and comparing quotes only, not a how-to.

What makes tree removal more expensive?

Greater height and trunk diameter, poor access, trees over a roof or near power lines, dead or leaning trees, and full cleanup with hauling and chipping.

Do I need a permit to remove a tree?

Sometimes — heritage, street and protected trees may require one, and it varies by municipality. Confirm locally, and involve the utility for any tree near power lines.

How much does tree removal cost?

Q: Does tree removal include the stump?

Usually not — stump grinding is a separate line priced by diameter with a minimum fee. Size it with the stump-grinding tool.

Tree removal is usually estimated by the tree’s height: cost = height × your $/ft + add-ons (stump grinding, hauling). But before any of that — tree work is dangerous, and this tool is for budgeting only.

By Francesco Zinghinì

⚠ Safety first — this is a budgeting tool

Removing a tree, especially a large one or one near a house, power lines or people, is genuinely dangerous work that causes serious injuries and property damage every year. It calls for a licensed, insured arborist with the right rigging, saws and liability coverage. This guide and the tree-removal cost tool help you plan a budget and sanity-check a quote — they are not an invitation to do the job yourself.

The estimate formula

Arborists commonly price by size, and height is the simplest proxy. The tool uses your own $/ft so it never goes stale:

total = height (ft) × $/ft + add-ons (stump, haul)

Worked example: a 60 ft tree

Removal = 60 × $20 = $1,200.
Add-ons = $150 (stump grinding or hauling).
Total = $1,350.

Enter the $/ft from your own quote — rates vary widely by region, species and difficulty, which is exactly why we do not hardcode a price.

What drives the price

Height and trunk diameter — bigger trees mean more time, bigger equipment and more debris.
Access and hazards — a tree in the open drops easily; one over a roof, a fence or power lines must be climbed and lowered piece by piece, which costs far more.
Species and condition — a dead, leaning or storm-damaged tree is riskier and pricier than a healthy one.
Cleanup — hauling logs and chipping brush, or leaving wood for firewood, changes the total.

Stump grinding is usually separate

Most quotes remove the tree but leave the stump. Stump grinding is a separate line, priced by diameter with a minimum fee — size it with the stump-grinding tool. If you have several trees, the tree-trimming tool estimates pruning by tree and size band, and for a lot cleared of many trees and brush, the land-clearing tool works by the acre (that job carries the same arborist-safety warning).

Insurance, permits and utilities

Confirm the arborist is licensed and carries liability and workers’ compensation insurance — if an uninsured crew is hurt on your property, you can be liable. Some municipalities require a permit to remove certain trees (heritage, street or protected species), and any tree near power lines should involve the utility, not a ladder. These rules vary by place, so confirm locally.

Quick reference: removal budget by tree height

At an example $20/ft plus $150 of add-ons, total = height × $20 + $150:

25 ft (small) → $500 + $150 = about $650.
40 ft (medium) → $800 + $150 = about $950.
60 ft (large) → $1,200 + $150 = $1,350.
80 ft (very large) → $1,600 + $150 = about $1,750.

These use an example per-foot rate only. Real rates climb steeply for hard access — a tree over a house or near power lines can cost several times a same-size tree in an open field — so always enter the figure from your own quote.

What “difficulty” really means

Two trees of the same height can price very differently. An arborist looks at: how the tree can come down (a clear drop zone versus climbing and rigging each limb down over a roof), proximity to structures, fences and power lines, the lean and health of the tree, whether a bucket truck or crane can reach it, and how the debris leaves the site. A dead or storm-damaged tree is more dangerous and often costs more, not less. This is why the honest answer to “what does it cost” is always “get it looked at” — and why the tool takes your quoted rate rather than pretending to know your tree.

Related tree work

Removal is one job among several. Grinding the leftover stump is priced separately by diameter — the stump-grinding tool covers it. Routine pruning to keep a tree healthy and safe is estimated per tree and size band in the tree-trimming tool. Clearing many trees and brush from a lot works by the acre in the land-clearing tool. All of them carry the same message: this is dangerous work for a licensed, insured arborist, and the tools are for budgeting, not for talking yourself into a chainsaw.

This is a planning estimate, not a bid. Get itemized written quotes from licensed, insured arborists, and make sure each spells out whether stump grinding, hauling, chipping and cleanup are included. Comparing three itemized quotes against your own estimate is the best way to avoid overpaying — and, more importantly, to hire a properly insured pro rather than the cheapest chainsaw.

Key takeaways

Total = height (ft) × your $/ft + add-ons (stump grinding, hauling).
A 60 ft tree at an example $20/ft with $150 of add-ons budgets to $1,350.
Access and hazards matter as much as height — a tree over a roof or near power lines costs far more.
Stump grinding is usually a separate line, priced by diameter with a minimum fee.
Tree work is dangerous: hire a licensed, insured arborist — this is a budgeting tool only.